How to care for your Guitar
The Basics
By Jay Lawless
So you own a guitar?
Maybe a novice player, or even a seasoned pro, this is by far the most
important aspect to owning a stringed instrument that often goes overlooked.
Think of your instrument in the terms of it being similar to
your car, with oil changes and tire pressure as simple maintenance. Preventative maintenance is as important as
“wear and tear” maintenance. Now
consider your “git-fiddle” as a pet.
What am I talking about you might ask?
Check it out. Your
guitar is most likely made of wood, with some of the more modern instruments
being made of composites. Either way,
glue has been involved during the construction of guitars since the birth of
the musical device. With this being
said, lets first have a look at preventative maintenance.
What NOT to do
Leaving you instrument in the car on a hot sunny day is as
bad as leaving your pet in your car with the windows up. Extreme heat can compromise the strength of
the affixed parts of your instrument, meaning glue used to make the instrument
doesn’t like hot weather. Wood has a tendency to flex and expand under
duress of heat, which can significantly alter the shape of guitar. At the same time, extreme cold can have the
reverse effect. Optimum conditions for
any stringed instrument is 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep in mind that stringed instrument already
have a nemesis, the pressure of the tuned strings. Mind blowing as is may be, most “tuned”
strings by themselves can boast anywhere from 160 to 200 pounds of force to the
top of your guitar!
Leaning your guitar against any object is a FAIL waiting to
happen. Invest in a simple guitar stand
($5-$25) Guitars are typically rounded in most cases and prone to gravity.
Keep the instrument away from moisture. Those who have the luxury of living near the
beach should take extra care when leaving their instrument exposed to ocean
moisture. Check out the bicycles in your
area. Notice the rust that develops on
spokes and any “chromed out” parts.
That’s what can happen to anything metal on your instrument. Tuners, or “machines”, that control the
tension on the strings are extremely susceptible to oxidation from salt in the
air. Simply wiping these parts down with
an untreated cloth, I personally like clean old t-shirts, can prolong the
effects of rust ruining any moving metal parts.
Protect the instrument.
Having a molded or wood case for you instrument is
ideal. This is typically the more
expensive route to take for your instrument.
How much did you pay for your guitar?
This question is significant as hard shell cases for guitars can start
around $60 and up, some shooting to the stars. (Grestch guitar company, owned
by Fender USA, has a case that retails for over $700) However, backpack style guitar cases are much
lighter and typically equipped with backpack straps to allow easier transport,
oh, and way more cost effective. Keep in
mind this style of case provide much less security in protection… It’s like a
sleeping bag for your instrument. In
most cases these “gig bags” retail around $30.
Now let’s focus on caring for your instrument.
String changes are inevitable when playing guitar. Asking any musical retail employee typically
yields discrepancies in longevity of your strings. Simply put, no matter how much playtime the
guitar gets, if your finger tips show ANY sign of green or black residue, its
time to change those strings. The
residue is the sign of oxidation and even rust.
Metal strings do not like the acidity from our skin. If your guitar strings feel “sand
paper-like”, most likely the strings are scratching at the front door to be
replaced. Wiping the strings down after
any play with a clean cloth can slow down the signs of oxidation. GHS and DUNLOP companies, found at any
musical retailer, offer “treated” cloths that can elongate the breakdown of
string wear. Typically, a casual player
that plays for fun at home should see around 2-3 months of life out of their
strings. Anyone playing shows, with the
sweat and rocking out that goes with the territory, will see a much shorter
life from their strings. Anyone who
“sweats” on their strings should be advised that putting their instrument into
a case after, is creating a humidor. The
humidity from the instrument placed into a case warm and sweaty, will
drastically increase string demise.
Changing your strings.
It is now the time to change your strings. Check out Martin Guitars website for a tried
and true, reliable “DIY” video for the
proper way to affix new guitar strings.
From my 17 years of experience, please consider the following advice.
DO NOT cut a taunt guitar string… EVER!
The probability of severe distress to your instrument (remember, up to
200 pounds of pressure) and your eyeball is at stake. First, one string at a time, release this
stress by unwinding (detuning) one string at a time. Theories of taking more than one string off
at a time circulate, but taking the time to take one off then replace and tune
is by far a better bet. Some electric guitars
have a “locked tremolo system,” which works off the tension of all the strings
as once. This system prevents extreme
adjustments once all the new strings have been strung. If restringing such an
instrument for the first time, consult your local retailer for visual
advisement.
Acoustic guitars have “pegs” which hold the ball end of a
guitar string into the bridge of the guitar.
These pegs allow physics to hold the ball end of a string into the
instrument. It is wise to purchase a “string
winder”, sold at any musical retail store ($1 to $10) that have a burrow that
allows for removal of this peg. Using a
set of pliers or anything like this, can have some significant negative
results.
But it hurts my fingers?
Unfortunately, the idea of pushing down metal or nylon under
your fingertips for any duration of time will create tenderness to the
tips. However, this uncomfortable issue
should subside within 1-2 weeks provided that the instrument is playable.
Known as “action” in musical circles, the distance of
pushing or squeezing a guitar string against the “fretboard” of any guitar, is
know as action. The higher the distance
(consider a tightrope at the circus) the more effort and strength required to
create sound from the string. High
action can yield pain and actually make a playable guitar, unplayable. This is common with guitars purchased at toy
stores or Internet sites, attached to the most minimal price tag.
Proper, playable instruments (with the exception of high end
traditional classically made guitars) should come equipped with a metal support
built into the center of the guitar neck. This is called a “truss rod”. The truss rod keeps the guitar neck from
bowing. String pressure can and will pull
a guitar neck into the shape of a banana on its back left unwatched. This is hard on fingers and terrible for the
guitar. Left unnoticed, this can
actually ruin a fine instrument. The
truss rod can be adjusted, however, I highly recommend it being done by a
qualified repair tech. Guitars stored in
garages or anywhere else for prolonged periods are highly affected by this
issue. If you find it hard to squeeze
your strings and you have had your instrument more than 6 months, please
consider this effect as the culprit.
Much like asking “The Edge” from the band U2 to play without
a delay pedal, over compensation of the truss rod can have adverse effects as
well. Strings vibrate conically, with
the most notable distance of travel being in the middle (the middle being from
where your finger is, versus the attachment to the guitar) Over compensated truss rods will not allow
for this vibration and you will began to hear “buzz”. Keep in mind, metal strings against metal,
(fret wire is primarily made by nickel metal) will ALWAYS create buzzing
sounds, however, improper truss adjustment will not allow the string to
resonate, or continue to make sound, whatsoever.
If you own a 12-string guitar, these affects can be seen
exponentially. Guitars equipped with 12
strings are still manufactured in the same way the standard six-string guitars
are made, with the exception of the hardware.
The extreme pressure from tuned strings weigh on the same body shape and
bracing made for six string guitars, typically.
So, storing a twelve stringed guitar is bad news. Relieving the stress of the strings, or
detuning the instrument, can often aid in preventing the strife of these
guitars.
Cleaning guitars
Well, to be blunt, guitars are not furniture. Do not use wood finish cleaners or basically
anything with an oil base to clean your instrument. Finished areas of the guitar, such as the
body, should be cleaned with water based products, but I must stress using
polishes from musical retailer is advised.
Exposed, unfinished areas of the guitar, are usually the
neck and bridge if you are playing an acoustic.
Electrics usually have only the neck fret board unfinished. Use linseed/lemon oils for these parts. They provide necessary moisture to the
unfinished woods keeping expanding and cracking under control.
Humidity
Wood is directly affected by humidity. Optimum humidity for any wood instrument is
45%-55% relative humidity. If you live
or expect your guitar to be out of these specifications, consider a humidifier
made for guitar. Relatively inexpensive
($5-$25) these little apparatuses can prolong any harm to your investment. Easy to use, most will fit into your guitar
case or gig bag.
Check out Stewart Macdonald’s website for even more in-depth
knowledge for caring for you instrument.
I bet you will find it intriguing, however, keep in mind that taking
care of your guitar logical as taking care of your pet.
